PARIS — The recent reopening of Notre Dame Cathedral was a momentous occasion, dedicated to the cultural resurgence and spiritual renewal of the iconic structure. However, for some attendees, the event resembled a carefully orchestrated branding spectacle by luxury giants like LVMH, casting a shadow over the solemnity of the celebration.
At the heart of the gathering was Bernard Arnault, a billionaire known for his role as the figurehead of LVMH, which is recognized as a leader in the luxury sector. Surrounded by key figures such as the French president, clergy members, and his family, the event prominently showcased the influence of luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Dior.
Notable figures such as French first lady Brigitte Macron and U.S. first lady Jill Biden were spotted carrying Lady Dior handbags, while LVMH’s artistic director Pharrell Williams performed, dressed in Louis Vuitton. South African soprano Pretty Yende also graced the occasion, performing “Amazing Grace” in a dazzling Dior gown adorned with 110 carats of diamonds.
Television journalist Yann Barthès humorously referred to the gathering as the “inauguration of the LVMH arena,” highlighting the luxury brand’s prominent presence. In 2024, LVMH has gained substantial public visibility, particularly as a high-profile supporter of the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics. However, the luxurious display raised questions about appropriateness within a revered spiritual space, given LVMH’s significant role in the cathedral’s restoration.
Fashion PR expert Theo Fontaine remarked on the mixed reception of such brand visibility, noting, “You can’t blame monsieur Arnault, a businessman, to do business. But people are now asking if it was an appropriate venue for a display like that.” He further stated it has been an exemplary year for LVMH, capturing attention from all corners with both the Olympics and the Notre Dame celebration.
Seated near Arnault at the event were representatives from Kering, which added an additional dynamic to the ongoing competition between France’s two top luxury conglomerates. Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault attended the event with his wife, actress Salma Hayek, dressed in a Gucci coat, which is under Kering’s umbrella.
The ceremony marked the completion of an extensive 840 million euro ($882 million) restoration project following the devastating fire in 2019, bringing together notable global figures and cultural icons. The restoration was a collaborative effort among France’s corporate powerhouses, with Arnault’s generous 200 million euro donation being the largest. This was followed by 100 million euro contributions from both Pinault and the Bettencourt-Meyers family of L’Oréal, while a vast network of businesses and artisans contributed to the project’s success.
As the bells of Notre Dame echoed across the city, the cathedral’s revitalization emerged as a symbol of collective goodwill, as well as a reminder of the intertwined relationship between France’s leadership and its illustrious luxury sector. French President Emmanuel Macron, along with his wife, welcomed an array of international dignitaries to the event, which was rife with tradition—and high fashion.
Arnault was joined by his family, including key executives from LVMH and Dior, highlighting the familial ties within the luxury empire. Antoine Arnault, in a post on LinkedIn, expressed pride in global generosity that facilitated the restoration of this “jewel of our heritage.” He emphasized the project’s spotlight on the exemplary French craftsmanship represented by almost 2,000 architects and artisans involved in the restoration work.
Public reactions, however, were mixed regarding the event’s luxurious undertones. Papuna Biliseishvili, 24, remarked, “If the devil wears Prada, the cathedral wears Louis Vuitton and Dior.” Meanwhile, 27-year-old Cari Lefebvre stated, “this is the most PR the Catholic Church has seen in centuries.” On the contrary, Marie-Claire Dubois, a 45-year-old Catholic worshiper, voiced her concerns, emphasizing the need for respect towards the sacred nature of the cathedral.
While the grandeur of the reopening ignited dialogue about the intersection of faith and fashion, the donations and contributions from Arnault and LVMH, including the provisioning of 36 ancient oak trees for the spire, received widespread acclaim. LVMH cemented its legacy further by participating in the Olympic Games, where it designed custom cases for 5,000 medals and the Olympic torch, exemplifying its prestigious craftsmanship and influence.
The rivalry between Arnault and Pinault was palpably evident through the visible participation of their respective brands at the cathedral event. This contest for dominance in the luxury market has historical roots that can be traced back to a fierce bidding war for Gucci in the late 1990s, which ultimately favored Pinault’s Kering.
In a more unexpected display, the French Catholic Church incorporated high fashion into the event by enlisting designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac to create 2,000 garments for clergy members. The unconventional designs offered a modern twist, illustrating how the realms of religion and fashion intersected dramatically at the celebrated reopening of Notre Dame.