KATHMANDU, Nepal — A young Sherpa climber who has gained notoriety as the youngest individual to successfully reach the summits of all 14 of the world’s highest mountains is advocating for greater recognition of Sherpas as athletes and expedition leaders, rather than merely as porters and guides.
“Historically, Sherpas have predominantly supported climbers, and our roles as leaders in these expeditions have often been overlooked,” stated Nima Rinji Sherpa during a recent interview.
At just 18 years old, Nima Rinji recently achieved his goal of summiting all 14 peaks exceeding 8,000 meters (26,247 feet), completing his quest with an ascent of Mount Shishapangma in China earlier this month.
The Sherpa community, traditionally comprised of yak herders and traders residing in the remote regions of the Himalayas, experienced a shift in the 1950s when Nepal opened its borders. With their inherent stamina and extensive knowledge of the mountainous terrain, Sherpas emerged as highly sought-after guides and porters, ultimately dominating the climbing industry in the region.
The historical ascent of Mount Everest by Tenzing Norgay along with Edmund Hillary in 1953 put Sherpas on the global map as skilled mountaineers.
However, according to Nima Rinji, there has been a lack of recognition for Sherpas as leaders in expeditions since then. To combat this issue, he has launched a “Sherpa power” campaign aimed at changing public perception. “This current generation possesses the potential for leadership; we have advantages that previous generations lacked, such as access to quality education, effective communication skills, and a deeper understanding of pressing issues like climate change and mountain conservation,” he elaborated.
Looking ahead, Nima Rinji and two fellow climbers are preparing to return to Mount Manaslu in Nepal — the first of the 14 high peaks that he summited. They plan to take a more challenging approach this time, aiming for an Alpine-style winter ascent. This means they will work without support staff, fixed ropes, or supplemental oxygen, carrying all of their own equipment and establishing their own route to the top.
In preparation for this winter expedition, Nima Rinji plans to first tackle several smaller peaks, with plans to depart for the mountains next week.
Coming from a prominent family known for their mountaineering prowess—his father and uncles operate Nepal’s leading expedition company, with his uncles being the first South Asians to conquer all 14 of the tallest peaks, alongside his father who has completed eight ascents of Mount Everest—Nima Rinji has a rich legacy to draw from.
Prior to his remarkable achievement, the record for the youngest climber to summit all 14 high peaks was held by Mingma David Sherpa, who accomplished the feat at the age of 30.