In a recent move to recognize a beloved British dish, a member of Parliament has joined forces with advocates to seek protected status for the iconic Cockney meal, pie and mash.
On Tuesday, Conservative MP Richard Holden spearheaded a discussion in Westminster Hall, urging that this traditional dish be granted the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label. Pie and mash is comprised of a savory pie, typically filled with minced beef, paired with creamy mashed potatoes and generously drizzled with a parsley sauce known as liquor.
Representing the Basildon and Billericay area, which is located east of London, Holden expressed his intentions to highlight and promote pie and mash, which has transcended its origins in central and east London, spreading out along the Thames Gateway and gaining popularity worldwide.
He characterized these dishes as the “original fast food,” emphasizing their historical significance among working-class Londoners, who are affectionately known as Cockneys. Traditionally, pies were sometimes filled with eels, and the dish is still commonly accompanied by stewed or jellied eels. Although traditional pie shops used to abound in London, their numbers have dwindled as the city’s culinary landscape has diversified.
Both the UK and the EU have initiatives aimed at providing cultural foods with official status to highlight their traditional significance. Various culinary treasures from Britain, such as the Gloucestershire Old Spots pork and Bramley apple pie, have already received the Traditional Speciality Guaranteed designation.
Environment Minister Daniel Zeichner addressed Holden’s inquiry by explaining that obtaining this designation entails reaching a consensus on the specific recipes that producers must adhere to in order to utilize the name in the future.
If granted, this status would mean that only those meals prepared following the established recipes or methods could be marketed as true Cockney “pie ‘n’ mash.” Compliance with these standards would be monitored through regular inspections to ensure adherence to the established guidelines. Zeichner added that the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs would evaluate the proposition once an official application is filed.