In the heart of the Chablis wine country in France, grape pickers at Domaine Roland Lavantureux winery are laboring on the final day of the harvest. The workers are handpicking the last of the prized Chardonnay grapes that will become the premier Cru labeled by the estate. However, wine enthusiasts worldwide might find it challenging to access the 2024 “millesime” due to smaller quantities being available this year.
The 2024 harvest season in France has been plagued by extreme weather conditions as a result of a changing climate. The Lavantureux estate experienced a short picking period of only nine days, half the usual timeframe, due to unpredictable harsh weather including frost, hailstorms, record rainfall, and the spread of a destructive fungus threatening Chablis growers.
Winemaker David Lavantureux, continuing his father Roland’s legacy, described 2024 as his most challenging year yet. From frost in April to double hailstorms in May, followed by continuous rain leading up to the harvest, the weather wreaked havoc on vineyards in the Chablis region. The Burgundy wine federation reported that about 1,000 hectares of vines in Chablis were affected by the May storms, with the excess moisture creating favorable conditions for mildew.
The Lavantureux brothers, David and Arnaud, worked tirelessly to combat the mildew with various treatments, albeit with limited success. The estate is expecting significant crop losses of around 60 to 65%, resulting in a low-yield year for their wines. This year’s challenging weather conditions have not only impacted the Lavantureux estate but have had widespread effects across French wine-growing regions, leading to a decreased overall production.
The 2024 vintage of wines from the Lavantureux family winery will exhibit distinct characteristics due to the challenges faced during the growing season. The weather variations in recent years, influenced by climate change, have forced winemakers to adopt innovative solutions to protect their vineyards from frost, hailstorms, and other weather-related threats.
Despite the setbacks faced by winemakers in 2024, the Lavantureux family remains optimistic, drawing on successful harvests in 2022 and 2023 to help offset the financial losses from the reduced harvest this year. International demand for Chablis remains strong, particularly in the United States, where wine exports have shown a notable increase.
Looking ahead, the Lavantureux family is focused on the future, already contemplating strategies for the next harvest. The resilience and adaptability of winemakers in the face of climate challenges highlight the dedication and passion within the industry.