Chemena Kamali recently unveiled her sophomore collection for Chloé, capturing a luminous exploration of femininity with a blend of the brand’s heritage and a fresh, sensual energy for the upcoming spring season. The collection, showcased against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes, and soft whites, reflected Kamali’s vision of a summertime where individuals can pause, escape, explore, and recharge.
Kamali’s portrayal of joyful freedom was evident throughout the collection, with silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops, and peek-a-boo designs featured in the lineup. Elements reminiscing of Karl Lagerfeld’s 70s Chloé were noticeable in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces such as a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. Kamali emphasized that Chloé embodies an eternal state of mind, rooted in a longstanding ethos of optimism and instinct.
The collection emphasized layering in a light and intuitive manner, reflecting a personal approach to dressing. Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace were effortlessly mixed with ribbed jerseys, creating weightless and spontaneous looks. A notable moment was a trapeze-shaped silk gown with a dynamic silhouette that epitomized Kamali’s ability to blend Chloé’s romantic roots with a modern sensibility, aiming for a light, weightless, sensual, and joyful mood throughout the collection.
Kamali’s second outing with Chloé showcased her ability to balance nostalgia and sensuality while propelling the brand towards a bright and optimistic future. Transitioning to another designer, Casey Cadwallader made a striking debut for Mugler with a collection that was theatrical and innovative. The theatrical elements included sculpted hair and sharp architectural lines within the garments.
For Cadwallader, it was crucial to infuse fresh energy into the Mugler brand, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans might expect. The dramatic collection featured elements such as seashell-inspired busts and bustiers resembling a diving whale, all aimed at embracing femininity. The designer’s focus on body-conscious design and inclusivity is evident in his work, resonating with a diverse audience.
However, Cadwallader’s emphasis on multimedia and performance aspects in the presentation raised concerns among some critics who felt it diverted the brand from its high-fashion roots. Inclusivity and pushing boundaries were evident themes in Cadwallader’s collection, suggesting a potential shift in Mugler’s identity towards a more entertainment-centered approach.
While opinions on this new vision may vary, the audience’s applause indicated a shared eagerness for more as Mugler navigates its path through a changing landscape in the fashion industry.