Fresh from Taylor Swift’s triumphant appearance on the Golden Globe red carpet in a glittering green Gucci ensemble, the brand’s creative director, Sabato De Sarno, delved into his menswear debut on the first day of Milan Fashion Week with a collection of somewhat shimmery, slightly subversive classics.
This marked De Sarno’s second runway collection as creative director, and it continued the evolution of Gucci’s codes. Several looks intentionally echoed his September womenswear debut, with a deep, blood-red leather jacket over bare legs conveying passion. Meanwhile, a zipped navy jacket paired with jeans or a sheer ribbed camel sweater reflected the brand’s urban cool aesthetic. The collection, titled “Ancora,” meaning still or again in Italian, showcased De Sarno’s ongoing exploration of Gucci’s identity.
De Sarno opted for a low-key approach to silhouettes and logos. Double-breasted jackets lacked visible closures, trenches were long and flowing, and plain pea coats harked back to the brand’s utilitarian heritage. The logo was used sparingly, with subtle Gucci lettering on leather bags and the double-G logo forming repeating patterns on slim suits, while the Gucci stripe adorned coat slits. The double-G belt emerged as a potential cult item for the masses.
Bondage touches made an appearance, featuring trailing silk ties fastened around the neck with silver hardware and half gloves in leather. The power of pairing was evident in a shirtless look with straight trousers, the double-G belt casually drifting to the hip.
With a versatile silhouette that transitioned seamlessly from sporty to tailored to dance floor-ready, the collection incorporated bling through kaleidoscopic crystal-covered tanks or trousers and shimmery shaggy lurex coats playing with light and motion. Deliberately deployed zippers caught the light against a dark palette, while crystal sequins illuminated the collars of ribbed knitwear. The adornments were purposeful, adding flair without overwhelming the pieces.
De Sarno emphasized the freedom and euphoria evident in the collection, challenging any preconceived taboos. In a departure from the recent past, the show shifted from the modern Gucci Hub to an industrial space in a former foundry across the city, marking a change in setting.
Front-row guests included Elliot Page and Idris Elba with his wife Sabrina Elba, adding star power to the already dazzling presentation of Gucci’s latest menswear creations.
