Mealtimes next to the Caspian Sea were always synonymous with generosity and variety. Each summer, Omid Roustaei’s extended family would gather, spending mornings swimming by the seaside, followed by returning to feasts at the family villa filled with an array of flavors.
Ingredients like pomegranate, bitter orange, dried lime, walnuts, and olives constantly appeared on their table. The earthy aromas of cumin and coriander mingled with the sweetness of cinnamon and cardamom, and occasionally, rose petals grounded to a fine powder.
Additionally, herbs played a significant role. Heaps of parsley, cilantro, and dill were liberally added to pots of simmering dishes, served fresh and vibrant at the table as vegetables rather than mere garnishes.
“In Persian cuisine, we don’t treat herbs as mere decorations on the side; instead, they are integral components, almost like vegetables,” said Roustaei, author of the cookbook “Bitter and Sweet: Global Flavors from an Iranian-American Kitchen.” “When preparing dishes, we incorporate vast amounts of herbs.”
The serene childhood spent between lively Tehran and the northern coast shifted dramatically when Roustaei was about ten. The onset of the Iranian Revolution led to major upheaval, prompting him to eventually relocate first to the Netherlands and then to Arizona.
Only after some years did Roustaei reconnect with his Iranian heritage, delving into the culinary traditions of his past. His journey took him to Seattle, where he began conducting cooking classes and launched a blog titled The Caspian Chef.
Roustaei aspires that by sharing Persian culinary traditions broadly, he can offer a form of cultural diplomacy, highlighting shared universal practices such as familial care and community bonding.
“Through food, which acts as a delightful doorway, individuals can acquaint themselves with Iran and its people,” Roustaei, who also works as a psychotherapist, explained.
He aims to simplify the complexity inherent in Persian cuisine, offering insight into fundamentals such as their equivalent of “plain rice,” a culinary form captured in the artful scents of saffron and yogurt, yielding fluffy grains crowned with a crisp, golden tahdig — literally, “bottom of the pot.”
Filled with dishes reminiscent of those enjoyed at bygone family gatherings, Roustaei’s book also accommodates the changes of modern life, with personal adaptations to each recipe.
One dish, khoresh fesenjun, evokes memories of his mother. Pieces of bone-in chicken are tenderized in a rich sauce of sautéed onions and ground walnuts. Iranians’ affection for tangy flavors is mirrored in the sauce, brightened by sweet yet tart pomegranate paste, created through the careful simmering of juice until it thickens.
Lacking a food processor, Roustaei’s mother would crush walnuts laboriously one-by-one using a river rock. For many home cooks today, a food processor or blender is a more convenient option, and pomegranate molasses is available more readily than paste, yet it remains equally delightful, reminiscent of those Caspian Sea gatherings.
“I find the dish easy to prepare, accessible, and distinctively flavorful,” concluded Roustaei.
**Chicken in Pomegranate and Walnut Sauce**
From “Bitter and Sweet: Global Flavors from an Iranian-American Kitchen,” by Omid Roustaei
**Ingredients:**
– 2 cups walnuts
– 2 tablespoons neutral oil
– 4 chicken thighs (about 1½ pounds), bone-in and skin-on
– 1 onion, diced
– ½ cup pomegranate molasses
– ½ cup water
– ½ teaspoon sea salt
– ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
– 2–4 tablespoons sugar (optional)
– ½ teaspoon saffron threads, ground and bloomed in 1 tablespoon hot water
**Directions:**
Using a food processor, grind the walnuts until they are finely ground and set them aside. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat and cook the chicken, skin side down, for about 5 minutes on each side until golden. Remove the chicken and set aside. Lower to a medium heat setting, and cook the onions until they become aromatic and lightly golden, roughly 10 minutes.
Incorporate the walnuts with the onions, reduce heat to medium-low, and stir continuously for 2–3 minutes, letting the walnuts become sticky and dense. Add the pomegranate molasses, water, salt, and pepper, and combine well.
Return the chicken pieces to the pot, ensuring they are immersed in the sauce. Cover the pot partially with the lid, increase the heat to achieve a gentle simmer. When simmering, bring the heat back to low and cover fully. Stir occasionally, scraping the bottom using a flat spatula to avoid sticking. After 40 minutes, taste the sauce and adjust sangthiness or sweetness as desired. The goal is a bold pomegranate flavor with a balance of sweet and tart.
Continue simmering until the sauce becomes dark maroon in color and the chicken is tender, falling off the bone, for up to another hour. Stir in the bloomed saffron.
Turn off the heat and allow the pot to stand covered for about 10 minutes. The natural oils from the walnuts and chicken should rise to the top, indicating a well-prepared khoresh in Persian culinary terms. Serve topped over steamed basmati rice.
