PARIS — In a historic moment for the Italian fashion scene, the renowned duo Dolce & Gabbana is presenting their work in Paris for the first time in their four-decade career. The city, celebrated as the cradle of haute couture, now plays host to an exhibition that serves as a compelling testament to Italian luxury fashion’s assertive presence.
Curator Florence Müller encapsulates the exhibition’s sentiment perfectly: “Yes, Italy does it too.” The exhibition, titled “Du Coeur à la Main” (From the Heart to the Hand), runs from January 10 to March 31. It not only honors the art of Italian craftsmanship but also underscores the global nature of fashion. “The narrative of couture extends beyond borders,” Müller elaborated. “Elements such as embroidery, lace, and brocade have roots deep in Italy, India, and other regions, far predating the Parisian era of haute couture.”
Set within the expansive 1,200 square meters of the Grand Palais, which has recently undergone renovations, the exhibit features over 200 ensembles from Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria lines, along with an impressive collection of 300 handmade accessories and Sicilian ceramics. Visitors can explore ten themed rooms, each delving into the artistic lineage that informs the designs of the celebrated fashion house.
Maximalism prevails in the showcased collection, which bursts with baroque splendor and intricate embellishments. Among the standout pieces is a striking gown that draws inspiration from the iconic Murano glass of Venice, intricately detailed with glass mosaics sourced from Orsoni Venezia 1888—foremost glassmakers credited with the gold mosaics adorning St. Mark’s Basilica. Müller affectionately describes it as “a sculpture in textile form—pure craftsmanship elevated to the realm of art.”
Opera serves as a dramatic highlight within the exhibition. A black velvet gown adorned with gold details evokes the intensity of Bellini’s “Norma,” while a flowing blue dress inspired by Verdi’s “La Traviata” captures the ethereal feels of love and sorrow through layers of delicate tulle. Additionally, notable personalities associated with the brand, such as Sophia Loren and Naomi Campbell, are immortalized in large-scale paintings. The soundscape created by classical Italian opera and traditional Sicilian melodies further enhances the dramatic ambiance.
Beyond finished garments, the exhibition features the live work of five seamstresses from Dolce & Gabbana’s Milan workshop, who skillfully craft bodices, corsets, and bustiers in real time. “One seamstress meticulously stitches lace together for a dress, while another silhouettes fabric by hand,” Müller commented. “It’s truly extraordinary. This transcends fashion—it’s art.”
At the core of this collection lies the influence of Sicily, the birthplace of Domenico Dolce. Traditional colorful Sicilian hand-painted carts, ceramics, and lace-making practices are seamlessly intertwined with the couture pieces. Yet, the exhibition also spotlights the often-overlooked global influences underlying fashion.
“Luxury items and skilled artisans have traversed more extensively than many realize,” Müller observed. “The silk and brocade that adorned Versailles originally came from India, with Italian artisans sourced to decorate the Hall of Mirrors… (Fashion) thrives on exchange and inspiration—this exhibit sheds light on what history has overlooked.”
Historically, Italian and French fashion have been seen as competing entities, with prominent French conglomerates such as LVMH and Kering and the Paris Fashion Week being regarded as apexes of style. However, this exhibition challenges that perception, revealing the intricate connections that bind these two fashion traditions. Both are anchored in the labor of “les petites mains”—”the little hands”—the dedicated artisans whose skill and dedication elevate fashion into the realm of art.
“The methods may vary—Sicilian lace-making versus Parisian tailoring—but the essence of couture is constant: the human touch,” Müller pointed out. This exhibit sheds light on the collaborative brilliance of French and Italian workshops, whether amid the bustling streets of Sicily or the chic salons of Paris.
Looking beyond couture, the exhibition also highlights the essence of “Made in Italy.” Everyday objects, such as Smeg refrigerators and coffee makers, reimagined through a Dolce & Gabbana lens, illustrate the ethos of Italian craftsmanship, transforming functional items into artistic expressions.
“Fashion is a form of art. It’s designed to inspire, to captivate, to evoke dreams. Whether an item is worn once or never, its true value lies in its beauty, not in its usability,” Müller expressed. When probed about the exaggeration surrounding the opulent gowns—many of which appear far from street-ready—she grins and replies, “So what?”
