Once a simple holiday staple, panettone has undergone a dramatic transformation in the United States, evolving from a budget-friendly Christmas treat to a high-end culinary experience with eye-popping price tags.
A Sweet Revolution
What was once a $10 circular loaf has now become a luxury item, with designer brands and top restaurants crafting panettone that can cost up to $100 or more. Renowned fashion houses like Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, and Roberto Cavalli have entered the panettone market, creating elaborately packaged versions that are as much a visual feast as a culinary one.
The Artisanal Difference
Bakeries and restaurants are taking panettone to new heights, emphasizing meticulous craftsmanship and premium ingredients. At Una Pizza Napoletana, chef Anthony Mangieri explains the labor-intensive process: “All ours are hand-shaped, and it’s made with a mother yeast so it takes days to leaven before baking.” His $109 lemon-and-dark chocolate panettone features candied lemon peel preserved using an ancient French method.
Similarly, Travelers Poets & Friends in the West Village creates two-day panettone using:
- Live mother yeast cultivated by master baker Luca Cascella
- Candied fruit from Northern Italy
- Hazelnuts from Piedmont
- Raisins sourced from California vineyards
A Historical Perspective
Food historian Francine Segan provides context for this luxurious trend. “Panettone was created in the 14th century as an opulent, sumptuous, rich special occasion sweet bread,” she explains. “Even the name is fancy. In the Milan dialect, ‘pan de ton’ meant ‘luxury cake.'”
Notable Luxury Panettone Offerings
- Sant Ambroeus: $59 limited production panettone
- Cipriani: $65 panettone
- Roberto Cavalli x Olivieri 1882: $130 panettone with signature Ray of Gold print
- Gucci Osteria Beverly Hills: $160 version (currently sold out)
- From Roy: $102 panettone (sold out by December 2)
A Personal Touch
Matt F., an Upper East Sider, represents the changing consumer perspective. Growing up with inexpensive store-bought panettone, he was won over by the Sant Ambroeus version. “It was so good that I said, ‘Oh hell. I’ll bring one home,'” he recounts.
The Broader Trend
The luxury panettone boom can be traced back to 2018 when Oprah featured Roy Shvartzapel’s panettone. Bakeries like She Wolf are seeing unprecedented demand, with their $65 artisanal panettone selling out within an hour of becoming available.
As panettone continues to evolve, it’s clear that this once-humble bread has transformed into a culinary status symbol, celebrating craftsmanship, tradition, and indulgence.
