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‘It is our new reality’: Kyiv welcomes its first fashion week since war began

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LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 21: Designers Ksenia Schnaider, Ivan Frolov and Julie Paskal on the runway at the Ukrainian Fashion Week presents: Ksenia Schnaider show during London Fashion Week February 2023 on February 21, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Jeff Spicer/BFC/Getty Images)

In September, Ukrainian Fashion Week will make a comeback to Kyiv for its 55th season, a significant event after the city’s last hosting in the wake of Russia’s invasion in February 2022.

About 50 brands are set to join in, presenting their collections with a variety of shows, installations, and performances. Most of the events will happen at Mystetskyi Arsenal, the National Art and Culture Museum Complex of Ukraine, where designers and models will march through Kyiv in a symbolic display of unity, as stated in a press release.

Following the invasion led by Russian President Vladimir Putin almost three years prior, Ukrainian soldiers have suffered significant losses, with reports of over 30,000 casualties. The Russian forces have also faced heavy losses, with estimates of more than 70,000 soldiers wounded or killed just in May and June 2024, according to the UK Defense Ministry. In response, Moscow has been offering sizeable signing bonuses to attract new recruits.

Lisa Ushcheka, head of international communications for Ukrainian Fashion Week, acknowledged that the country is still engulfed in war and its effects are felt nationwide. Living in a state of constant conflict, with missile attacks, blackouts, and power shortages, has become the new normal for the Ukrainian people.

The safety of all participants and attendees will be ensured, with venues like Mystetskyi Arsenal equipped with bomb shelters. In the event of an air raid siren, guests will be directed to the shelter for their safety.

Despite the ongoing conflict, local media, industry professionals, and influencers are anticipated to be present at the event. However, international attendees may face challenges due to travel warnings from countries like the UK and the US, advising against trips to Ukraine, particularly Kyiv.

Discussions about the return to Kyiv have been ongoing for six months, with organizers remaining optimistic that the situation will not worsen. Nevertheless, Ushcheka highlighted that if conditions deteriorate, the event may be called off. Designer Ivan Frolov, a Kyiv native presenting his collection in September, emphasized Ukrainian resilience in the face of challenges, with contingency plans in place.

This season will mark the return of Ukrainian designers to showcase their collections in Kyiv since the outbreak of the war. In the last three seasons, cities like Berlin, London, and Copenhagen have hosted Ukrainian designers who sought refuge. In February 2023, Frolov showcased his Fall-Winter 2023 collection in London alongside Ksenia Schnaider and Paskal, not only seeking assistance but also demonstrating Ukrainian talent and strength. Frolov expressed, “We are here, and we are just as capable as anyone else.”

Every brand participating in the event has agreed to donate towards the establishment of a new palliative care unit in Kyiv. The donations will be used to purchase essential medical equipment for individuals with severe and incurable injuries. Attendees will also have the chance to contribute to the cause during the event. Ushcheka expressed her optimism that the event will not only inspire others but will also shed light on the importance of hosting a fashion week in a country amidst conflict.

Returning to Kyiv for the fashion week holds a deep sentimental value for Frolov. ‘I am grateful that my sunglasses are dark,’ he revealed, holding back tears. ‘Because my eyes are filled with tears right now. Kyiv holds a special place in my heart. It is where I was born, and it means everything to me. Despite being able to travel and explore other countries with the support of the Minister of Culture and the Minister of Economy, I cannot be away from Kyiv for too long as it makes me feel unwell. Kyiv is my homeland, it is my essence.’

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