In the bustling world of fashion, few individuals have left as indelible a mark as Virgil Abloh. Known for his calm demeanor and innovative ideas, Abloh redefined the industry’s norms and made a significant impact as a Black creative force in a career that, though brief, was profoundly influential. Since his untimely passing in 2021 at the age of 41, his presence continues to resonate strongly in the fashion world. Pulitzer Prize-winning writer Robin Givhan delves into Abloh’s remarkable journey in her recent book, “Make It Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh.”
Givhan’s book, released this week, explores Abloh’s life from his roots as the son of Ghanaian immigrants in Rockford, Illinois, to his academic pursuit of architecture, and his collaborations and friendships with figures like Kanye West. Before he rose to become the first Black menswear creative director at Louis Vuitton, Abloh engaged passionately in various creative fields including fine art, architecture, DJing, and design. He cleverly combined these interests with marketing acumen to forge a path in fashion through streetwear labels like Been Trill and Pyrex Vision.
These initiatives laid the foundation for his iconic luxury streetwear brand, Off-White, distinguishable by its white diagonal lines, quotation marks, red zip ties, and clean typeface. Off-White’s success led to notable collaborations with companies like Ikea, for which Abloh designed a “KEEP OFF” rug, and Nike, where he reimagined ten of the brand’s classic shoe designs. Through these ventures, Abloh garnered a dedicated following among sneaker enthusiasts and cultural trendsetters who loyally supported his brands and appearances, significantly amplified by his strategic use of social media.
Despite the devotion Off-White commanded, it also drew criticism. Givhan, senior critic-at-large for the Washington Post, candidly acknowledges her initial skepticism. She notes her intrigue with how Abloh’s influence seemed to transcend the clothing itself, pointing to a broader cultural impact as the essence of his appeal. To gain insights into Abloh’s creative processes and enduring legacy, Givhan engaged with conversations surrounding his work against the backdrop of America’s pressing racial tensions.
Discussing the significance of contextualizing Abloh’s upbringing and ascent in the fashion industry, Givhan asserts the importance of environmental and cultural influences on creative choices. She explores how various realms of Abloh’s passions, such as skater culture and DJing, informed his unique design philosophy, where remixing existing elements was both a creative tool and a fashion statement.
Givhan perceives Abloh as a pivotal figure who questioned the traditional role and definition of a creative director in the luxury sector. He challenged the industry to reassess what constitutes luxury—whether it’s enduring craftsmanship or a broader conceptualization of beauty and desirability tied to personal and community values.
Harnessing the reach of social media, Abloh was not merely broadcasting his vision; he fostered a dialogue with his audience, breaking down the barriers that typically separated fashion leaders from their followers. His willingness to engage in this way elevated his stature and accessibility, offering an unprecedented glimpse into the upper echelons of fashion.
Reflecting on Abloh’s connection with Kanye West, Givhan notes how their partnership propelled both creatives in significant ways. Although West chose not to participate directly in her book, Abloh’s reflections on their collaborations, preserved in unpublished interviews, highlight how their differing yet complementary traits fueled their mutual success.
The ongoing relevance of Abloh’s work is attributed to both the vast scope of his creative output and the abrupt, unfinished quality his early passing imparts. His legacy invites speculation about how he might have adapted to shifts following events such as the George Floyd protests, revealing his complex blend of rebellion and transformational subtlety in confronting cultural and social change.