In the pastoral hills of Somis, California, Andreas Tompros, a resilient avocado grower, is optimistic about his farm’s revival despite a devastating wildfire last year that claimed his home and a significant portion of his avocado orchard. Unlike many farmers facing hurdles such as high labor costs, water restrictions, and international competition, Tompros and his fellow avocado cultivators are experiencing a unique advantage — Mexican imports.
When Mexican avocados first entered the U.S. market in 1997, there was initial apprehension among California growers about foreign fruit overshadowing local production. However, these imports have provided a continuous supply, boosting overall sales by meeting the year-round demand from markets and restaurants. This constant availability has transformed avocados from a seasonal treat to a stable staple in American diets, making them a consistent hit despite the season.
Over the past 20 years, domestic avocado consumption has soared, with consumption figures illustrating a significant increase. From 2000 to 2021, per capita availability of avocados more than tripled, indicating a widespread adoption of avocado-centric dishes such as avocado toast and guacamole nationwide.
High up on a sunlit hill northwest of Los Angeles, Tompros is planting nearly 300 new avocado trees. His confidence in the American appetite for avocados remains unshaken, forecasting a promising resurgence for his Somis orchard. Formerly in the software industry, Tompros turned to avocado farming five years ago, fueled by his conviction in the fruit’s enduring popularity.
Interest in avocados has also been propelled by the fruit’s reputation as a source of healthy fats. The Hass Avocado Board, established by a 2000 U.S. law, has played a critical role in promoting both Californian and imported avocados. Through marketing campaigns and nutritional research, they have successfully positioned avocados as a supermarket and restaurant staple, benefiting from a robust funding mechanism that outpaces many other agricultural industry groups.
According to the Hass Avocado Board’s executive director, Emiliano Escobedo, around 60% of American households currently purchase avocados, with half of those consuming the majority of the fruits. This data signals potential for growth, especially in the Northeast, where avocados are still gaining ground.
Despite potential trade tensions, avocados have so far been excluded from tariffs on Mexican goods, allowing California growers to benefit from a healthy competitive market. The California Avocado Commission’s president, Ken Melban, emphasizes the advantageous position of avocados in California’s farming hierarchy. California is responsible for about 10% of the avocados consumed in the U.S., primarily harvested from April to September, while Mexican imports fulfill the year-round national appetite.
In Ventura County, a shift towards avocado cultivation is evident as lemon growers switch due to falling lemon prices — a result of cheaper foreign imports. This transition suggests an impending growth in avocado production as new orchards mature, according to the county’s agricultural commissioner, Korinne Bell.
Nevertheless, wildfire risks loom over avocado farming in this fire-sensitive region. This demand surge is evident in the full orders for avocado trees, even years in advance, as noted by Rob Brokaw of a longstanding family nursery servicing California growers.
Confronted with the choice of more fire-resistant lemon trees post-fire, Tompros decided to stick with avocados, drawn by the sustained demand for dishes like Super Bowl guacamole and avocado toast. Conscious of the fire hazard posed by dried leaves, he takes care to distance new plantings from his future rebuilt home. Although it may take time for the new trees to yield avocados, Tompros remains hopeful, planning to sell the fruit through local outlets or in bespoke seasonal gift boxes along with citrus and passionfruit.