In the town of Tetela del Volcán, Mexico, the vibrant colors of Easter take over the mountain streets every year. The festivities feature large, human-sized figures that resemble caterpillars, dressed in colorful stripes. These figures, referred to as “sayones,” are part of a deep-rooted Easter tradition that has been upheld in the community for 350 years. Located near the active Popocatépetl volcano, this town prepares months in advance for the annual three-day Easter celebration.
José Alfredo Jimenez, who leads tourism and culture in Tetela del Volcán, asserts that this festival is an intrinsic part of the town’s identity. The origin of this tradition dates back to when European colonizers tried to convert Indigenous people to Catholicism, often using dramatic reenactments depicting Roman soldiers from the crucifixion of Jesus. Over the centuries, the celebration has evolved, incorporating local customs and enhancing its uniqueness.
Key to the celebration are the elaborate hats worn by the sayones, representing Roman soldiers’ helmets, which have gradually increased in grandeur. When Jimenez first participated as a young teenager, the hats were modest. Today, they are expansive, multicolored displays that reach remarkable heights as participants parade through the streets. Each year features new hues ranging from yellows and reds to pinks and blues.
Eduardo Canizal, a 20-year-old participant, chose a striking pink and black hat for this year’s event. Crafted from around 900 sheets of tissue paper, Canizal meticulously prepared his hat, fastening it to a sturdy base to bear its weight of approximately 35-40 pounds. Before the procession, he donned the full sayone attire with delicate cloaks and leather boots.
The marchers parade through the town streets, creating a rhythmic clatter with machetes mimicking Roman swords, embodying figures like Pontius Pilate and Judas from the crucifixion story. Despite the influx of tourists in other areas of Mexico, Tetela del Volcán retains the local essence and spirit of its Easter celebration, with over a thousand residents participating this year.
Jimenez emphasizes the transformative power of donning the sayone mask, providing a mystical element that defines Tetela’s cultural fabric. As contrasting cultural events evolve and face modernization pressures, Tetela strives to preserve its tradition’s purity.
Crafting the intricate cloaks and hats is a labor of love, sometimes starting as early as July, as 20-year-old Emilio Aguilar demonstrates with his sequin and bead designs portraying religious figures. However, despite the hours invested, the culmination of this effort is an act of penance and sacrifice.
The celebration climaxes on Easter Sunday afternoon when participants solemnly lay flowers at the stone church before running up the mountain. As they do, bystanders ignite their hats outside the stadium, symbolizing the burning away of their labors as a form of Easter atonement. This fiery conclusion signifies the profound spiritual dedication and communal spirit that characterizes Tetela del Volcán’s treasured Easter festivities.