OME, Japan — Inside a dimly lit warehouse, sake is maturing in massive tanks, each with the capacity to hold over 10,000 liters (2,640 gallons) of this traditional Japanese rice wine, a product stemming from brewing practices that have existed for over a millennium.

Junichiro Ozawa, the 18th-generation leader of Ozawa Brewery, established in 1702, aspires for sake brewing to be recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in the upcoming decision next month.

“Our focus is always on those who enjoy our sake while we craft it. I’m thrilled, envisioning the expressions of all those people globally,” he shared with reporters during a recent tour of his brewery situated in the picturesque outskirts of Tokyo.

Initially the drink of the aristocracy depicted in “The Tale of Genji,” the most acclaimed piece of Japanese literature, sake is expanding its global reach, aided by the increasing popularity of Japanese culinary practices worldwide.

According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, Japan’s sake exports exceed 41 billion yen ($265 million) annually, with key markets being the U.S. and China. This figure has significantly increased from about 22 billion yen in 2018. However, exports still represent a small portion of total sake production in Japan. Countries like Brazil, Mexico, Southeast Asia, and various regions in Europe are also cultivating a taste for sake, corresponding with the rise of Japanese restaurants.

Central to the sake-making process, which spans roughly two months involving fermentation and pressing, are the rice and water. For rice to be classified as Japanese sake, it must be sourced from Japan. The soft quality of Japan’s freshwater resources, particularly evident in the water drawn from the two wells at Ozawa Brewery, plays an important role.

Ozawa’s offerings include the rich and aromatic Junmai Daiginjo, a premium sake with a 15% alcohol volume, priced at around 3,630 yen ($23) for a 720 milliliter bottle. Another variant is Karakuti Nigorizake, an unfiltered sake that is cloudy compared to its clearer counterparts, with a 17% alcohol content and a more robust flavor, selling for 2,420 yen ($16) for a 1,800 milliliter bottle.

Sake holds spiritual significance at the brewery. A large cedar-leaf ball hangs beneath the eaves, symbolizing a shrine dedicated to the sake-making deity. In Japanese culture, sake is not just a drink; it is used in purification rituals and to mark celebrations, with shared sips from a cup cementing marital vows.

“Sake transcends being merely an alcoholic beverage; it embodies Japanese culture itself,” stated Hitoshi Utsunomiya, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association.

The UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage designation encompasses not only historic sites but also culturally significant practices passed through generations, including oral traditions, performance arts, rituals, and festivities. Although its purpose is not commercial, sake officials openly express hopes that this recognition will enhance global sales, ensuring the survival of this tradition in the face of rising competition from beer, wine, and other contemporary beverages.

Previous Intangible Cultural Heritage recognitions include Kabuki theater and Gagaku court music from Japan, as well as unique cultural practices like Angola’s Sona sand drawings, the Chinese guqin, and the craftsmanship of Cremonese violins from Italy. In 2013, Washoku, which refers to traditional Japanese cuisine, received similar honors.

One contributing factor to sake’s increasing popularity globally is its smooth taste, which pairs well with various foods, including sushi and both spicy Asian and Western cuisines, according to Max Del Vita, a certified sake sommelier and co-founder of The Sake Company, an importer and distributor based in Singapore.

“These brewers are custodians of culture, passing down their techniques through the generations while intertwining ancient methods with subtle innovation,” he commented. “Sake embodies not just a drink but the living rhythm of Japan’s seasons, community values, and artistic heritage.”