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At the break of dawn, devout worshippers, including Ernesto Troya, embarked on a challenging part of their pilgrimage aimed at reaching the revered statue of the Black Christ located in Portobelo, Panama. Driven by their strong beliefs, they persevered for hours, slowly making their way along the road towards the saint’s image.
This annual event, which takes place every October 21st, is among the most notable religious occurrences in the northern province of Colón. The festival honoring the Black Christ of Portobelo stands out as one of the largest Catholic pilgrimages in this Central American nation, with roots that stretch back several centuries.
Portobelo itself is recognized as a significant tourist spot, rich in historical and cultural significance. During the era of Spanish colonization, the city operated as an essential port and center of commerce in the Caribbean region.
Some historical accounts tell a fascinating tale about the statue’s origins. It is said that in 1658, a fisherman discovered the Black Christ statue wrapped in a “cayuco,” a traditional wooden canoe, off the coast of Portobelo on the very day of October 21. When Spanish settlers recognized the statue’s importance, they attempted to relocate it to another country. However, each time they set sail, fierce storms thwarted their efforts, ultimately leading the local settlers, many of whom had African lineage, to embrace the statue as their protector and patron.
Every year, thousands of devotees make their way to San Felipe Church, which proudly displays the Black Christ on an ornate altar. Many participants undertake what are called “mandas,” long treks meant to give thanks for blessings or miracles they believe they have received.
Among the crowd, Troya, a 46-year-old security personnel, exemplifies the dedication of the pilgrims. As the last part of their journey, many engage in a symbolic crawl through the town’s streets towards the sacred image, often resulting in physical strain and injuries such as cramps or sore knees.
“If one gets on their knees with the faith one has (in the saint), everything will go well,” Troya remarked, emphasizing the deep conviction he holds. “With faith, everything is possible,” he added, shedding light on the spiritual essence that drives individuals during this moving pilgrimage.
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