In a captivating display of historical and contemporary themes, Dior’s fall 2025 show in Paris intertwined elements from the past and present, inspired by Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando.” Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, potentially in one of her final collections for Dior, presented a ready-to-wear collection that celebrated evolving femininity. Chiuri’s work skillfully combined historical influences with modern fashion, leaving a lasting impression on the fashion world.
The event turned chaotic as K-pop sensation and Dior ambassador Jisoo made her entrance. Her arrival at the Tuileries annex sparked an uproar among fans, nearly transforming the fashion show into a concert atmosphere due to the overwhelming attention. Amidst the frenzy, celebrities like Natalie Portman and Elle Macpherson took their positions as massive volcanic rocks descended from the ceiling, creating a raw and unexpected backdrop.
Chiuri seamlessly melded historical motifs with modern flair. The collection featured the iconic white shirt, adorned with removable ruffs reminiscent of the character Orlando, allowing wearers to bridge time periods. Pirate-inspired pantaloons, lace scarves, and ecclesiastical coats contributed to a gothic, dramatic ambiance. Details like fur-like collars and knee-high socks merged elegance with a grounded, practical vibe.
A unique interplay of structure and fluidity defined the collection. Crinolines were suggested by black velvet ribbons, while technical outerwear contrasted with intricate embroidery. Bustiers combined with masculine jackets pushed boundaries, challenging traditional power-dressing norms. A nostalgic twist came with the reappearance of the ‘J’adore Dior’ T-shirt, a nod to the Galliano era.
Chiuri’s feminist vision shone through in this collection, focusing on women who wield power independently, like Diana the Huntress and Joan of Arc. Her use of gender-fluid silhouettes and subtle historical subversion highlighted her commitment to women’s empowerment, balancing softness with structure.
Unlike her predecessors, Chiuri has emphasized naturalism in her work rather than theatricality. This collection had an edge, merging historical nods with a modern touch. The show’s setting mimicked the earth’s primordial creation, with smoke, crystal formations, and volcanic rocks lending a raw, dangerous feel to the experience, diverging from the traditionally feminine venues of Chiuri’s past shows.
While the garments captivated, a significant undercurrent of the event was Chiuri’s potential departure from Dior. The soundtrack’s refrain, “Once upon a time, if I had but time,” seemed to echo the rumors of her exit. As speculation swirled, insiders speculated about the future. Rumors indicate Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson might assume the helm, possibly impacting both men’s and women’s collections, heralding a new era for Dior’s creative direction.
