MILAN — In a bold move during Milan Fashion Week on Wednesday, Marni’s creative director, Francesco Risso, turned the runway into an impromptu jazz club, featuring notable friends such as Tracee Ellis Ross who modeled his unique creations for the Fall-Winter 2025-26 collection.
The inspiration for Risso’s latest collection struck him during an artist residency in London, where he collaborated with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier for a month. This period was marked by creating art solely for the joy of creation. Risso revisited his passion for painting, resulting in collaborative artworks that adorned some of the new pieces, as well as the walls of the fashion show venue.
“Our hands were dancing together, literally,” Risso remarked backstage, echoing the collaborative spirit that infused the collection.
Risso’s newest line, characterized by its sculptural qualities, is intended to be a “seed vault” for future collections, capturing the quintessential “Marni essence.” Oversized floral patterns adorned suits, with long stems trailing from bias-cut jackets, adding a touch of the fantastical. One of the standout pieces was a whimsical bumblebee sweater crafted as a work of knitted sculpture. Wool coats were designed with an exaggerated puff at the back, reminiscent of cocoons, and oversized fur collars added a dramatic flair. Each garment seemed to tell its own story, with fables such as the narrative of a pack of good-luck wolves artistically presented for guests.
“It’s time for reflection,” Risso noted. “It’s time to preserve.”
