MONTCLAIR, Va. — In a quaint wine shop located an hour from Washington, owner Arthur Lampros was introduced to a wine he had never encountered before. He found himself pondering the flavor profile on his palate, questioning whether there was a nearby body of water that could affect the climate conditions influencing the grapes’ growth. “Absolutely, absolutely,” responded Giorgi Iukuridze, a Ukrainian winery owner, as he explained that the coast of the Black Sea near Odesa was indeed the answer.
As Lampros savored the wine, U.S. Air Force veteran Sam Lerman, who supports Iukuridze’s efforts, nodded enthusiastically. Lerman pointed out that while Ukraine is currently in the global spotlight due to its conflict with Russia, the team behind this initiative wishes to communicate that the country represents more than just a nation in turmoil. “We want Americans to see that Ukraine is more than an ally at war, suffering tremendous tragedy,” he mentioned, emphasizing the need to showcase Ukraine’s rich cultural heritage.
Kurt Volker, a former U.S. ambassador to NATO and the ex-special representative to Ukraine under President Donald Trump, echoed the sentiment, stating that Ukraine is emblematic of determination and resilience. “Unfortunately, when people talk about Ukraine today, it often revolves around the ongoing conflict, leading to fatigue about military spending,” he shared, reflecting on the current perception of Ukraine amidst its struggles.
The Russian incursions into neighboring countries have paved the way for many Americans, including military personnel and diplomats, to discover the emerging wine industries in the region that was once part of the Soviet Union. Volker, for instance, has lifetimes’ worth of encounter with Georgian wineries, including Iukuridze’s SHABO winery, where he regularly sought production insights.
The ongoing war, particularly the invasion that began in February 2022, has piqued the interest of many American military personnel in the wines coming from Ukraine’s Black Sea region, as well as its fine vodkas. Lerman, who is a decorated combat veteran from Afghanistan, embarked on his first trip to Ukraine shortly after the conflict escalated, where he worked alongside American volunteer military advisers.
Historically, the military has always held a special appreciation for alcohol. U.S. Navy sailors cherish their limited beer rations, and during service abroad, soldiers often relished mock drinks for that much-needed relief. Lerman’s first experience with Ukrainian alcohol occurred in a safehouse when a bottle of vodka found its way to the table amidst affiliations of laptops and firearms, leading to a surprising endorsement from him regarding the beverage.
Eager to share his newfound admiration for Ukrainian alcoholic beverages, Lerman started bringing home bottles of SHABO wines and vodka. However, upon searching for these items in U.S. stores, he was disappointed to discover that a significant amount of Ukrainian wine available was older and sweeter, primarily targeted at local diaspora communities.
This realization prompted Lerman to join forces with Iukuridze to found Spyrt Worldwide, a U.S. import company focused on distributing his wines and select Ukrainian vodkas. A portion of the proceeds is allocated to Invictus Global Response, a veteran-run nonprofit dedicated to mine-clearing efforts.
With a wine-producing legacy that dates back 2,500 years, the Black Sea coast has roots established by ancient Greek settlers. The SHABO winery’s vines have origins that trace back to the Ottoman Empire, and the region gained notable prestige in winemaking during the 1800s thanks to Swiss settlers who recognized the area’s potential.
In stark contrast, wine quality has historically suffered under the Soviet regime, which prioritized mass production of cheap sweet wines. Volker remembers the unpalatable output of that era resulting from state-controlled practices. He believes the current fine wines emerging in the region signify a promising shift away from the Soviet mindset.
Throughout the turbulent years that followed the Soviet Union’s fall in 1991, Iukuridze and his father became significant figures in the Ukrainian wine industry, modernizing production techniques. Their SHABO wines have garnered international accolades and are featured in Michelin-rated restaurants worldwide. Despite the ongoing conflict, their winery, situated far from the frontline, occasionally faces the threat of nearby rocket strikes.
Lerman and Volker, alongside notable figures from the defense sector and members of Congress, gathered in Washington to celebrate the launch of Spyrt Worldwide. The event was permeated with a blend of hope regarding the future of both Ukraine and its wine industry amid the looming threat of military escalation.
In a poignant moment, Iukuridze recounted how, during the first invasion of eastern Ukraine and Crimea in 2014, a family fleeing the conflict paused to engage with the winery’s head winemaker, who was dedicated to planting new vines that would symbolize a hopeful, independent Ukraine. The family, inspired by the commitment they witnessed, decided to turn around and return to their home.
With optimism, Iukuridze raised a glass of white wine, proposing a toast: “For the bright future. For being an example.” Despite all hardships, the dedication to crafting quality wines continues unabated, symbolizing resilience and hope for a brighter tomorrow.
